A
few months ago on a Saturday, I watched an episode of
Rick
Steves’ Europe on PBS. Featured was the famed Greek
Isle
of Santorini, a place I had the pleasure of visiting back
in
the late 1980s.
Several
thousand years ago, Santorini, a volcanic island
in
the Aegean Sea, had a thriving civilization until it erup-
ted
and blew the hell out that Minoan utopia. Well, over
centuries
new inhabitants rebuilt another society, rimmed
primarily
along the steep cliffs of the volcanic caldera—
Truly
a scenic and breathtaking place.
When
I visited, some thirty years ago, there was still a
pervasive
nostalgic feel of relaxed historic and earthy
simplicity;
donkey drovers ferrying supplies and tourists
up
and down perilous and winding trails; fishermen sail-
ing
out daily into the deep cerulean sea; white-washed,
mom
and pop shops, quaint and cosy cafes and modest
hotels
stacked atop one another, dotting the perpendic-
ular,
volcanic hillsides.
Back
then, there were no Hiltons, Burger Kings or Starbucks,
not
a single multi-national conglomerate was to be found. My,
how
things have changed since then. In Steves’ travelogue, he
presented
a far different scene where corporate conglomerates
and
profiteers have exploited the once sleepy-eyed and charm-
ing
society. Cable cars, modern buses, and all manner of com-
mercial
enterprise now cater to a bustling international tourist
trade.
What a shame.
My
memories take me back to the day I disembarked the ferry
from
Piraeus to Fira, Santorini. To ascend the 800-foot caldera
rim
from sea-level to the top, the adventurous tourist could
either
walk, hire a donkey drover or take a rickety old bus which
puffed,
clanged, creaked, buckled and bumped as it struggled to
climb
every meter of the way.
All
of us on board that bus, tourist and native alike, braved that
white-knuckled
ride as we crept higher and higher, negotiating
myriad
hair-pin turns, all the while swaying precariously close
to
the edge of oblivion. I am sure like me, every passenger was
hoping
against hope that that well-worn rust-bucket of a bus
would
eventually reach the top and safety.
I
too was reminded that Santorini, although dormant at the
moment,
sits atop an active volcano. I knew then, that my ad-
venture
of a lifetime had only just begun. And
the devastation
of
another eruption would be far too great for even the
machine of modern development
and wheels of commerce
to escape.
I watched as the young woman pulled herself out of the blue
Aegean back onto the tour boad. She stood unabashedly naked above the
waist. And I thought to myself, thank god progress had not gone too far.
At least there was one mythological Greek godess left on the grand Isle
of Santorini.
Chris
Hanch 12-20-18